what's in store - View this location on map 'A few miles before the tiny hamlet of Livonia, you will spy a nondescript general store on the left, usually surrounded by a cluster of vehicles flying L.S.U. flags  a sure sign of fans on the move. The renovated store is actually a restaurant in disguise, Joe's Dreyfus Store Restaurant (2225-637-2625). This unassuming roadhouse serves up straight-ahead Cajun specialties like crawfish étouffée ($13.50) and gelatinous hogshead cheese ($3.50) along with surprisingly sophisticated dishes including light and flavorful sautéed frog's legs in a Provençal-style wine and tomato sauce ($7.50 for an appetizer portion).'' New York Times 2731 Highway 77, Livonia, LA Restaurant

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