too much is never enough - View this location on map Alex Madonna has died, but his one-of-a-kind hotel lives on. begun in 1958, the madonna inn ( 800-543-9666) was built much to the initial chagrin and later the astonishment of san luis obispo's city leaders. you have to book one of the 109 theme rooms to see its over-the-top décor (photos are at www.madonnainn.com), but tourists (male and female) line up to gape at the hotel's eight-foot waterfall urinal. breakfast is served in the wildly ornate copper cafe and includes pastries that ooze fresh whipped cream ($2.75), strawberry waffles ($10.95) and the massive madonna frittata ($10.45) with spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms and zucchini. mr. madonna was buried in the old mission cemetery after two horses pulled a historic hearse with his casket through town. In 1982, Aljean Harmetz wrote in The New York Times that the Madonna Inn (100 Madonna Road, 800-543-9666) ''is delightfully vulgar -- gable piled on gable, furbelow on furbelow -- in some dizzying blend of a Swiss Alpine village, an ice cream pie and Disneyland.'' It hasn't changed. Its 109 rooms are $147 to $330 a night. New York Times 100 madonna road, San Luis Obispo, CA Hotel, Cultural

---