three little words - View this location on map 'discussions about memphis barbecue, even among friends, can lead to fisticuffs. stop at payne's (901-272-1523) on your way in from the airport. it's a former service station, cavernous and spare, an unintentional zen exercise to focus you on the food. in memphis, barbecue doesn't mean ribs; it means pork shoulder, pulled from the bone or chopped and served with hot sauce or mild, with a dollop of cole slaw on top. the slaw is essential, as the perfect sandwich - i.e., payne's - is not only a matter of taste but also of texture. 'one chopped hot,' you say at the counter, and three little words have never meant so much. the meat is succulent and tender, with occasional crunchy bites that particularly burst with flavor; the mustardy slaw seeps into the tangy sauce. don't worry; the sandwich isn't big enough to spoil dinner.'' New York Times 1762 lamar avenue, Memphis, Tennessee Restaurant, Local spot, Budget

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