the goode ribs - View this location on map ''haute cuisine - sure, that's nice. but do what texans who have been exiled to other parts of the country do when they return home: get yourself some barbecue as fast as you can. make a stop at goode company barbeque (5109 kirby drive, 713-522-2530), above, for some ribs and potato salad and jalapeo beans ($8.95) immediately. do not skip the beans. do not check into your hotel first. get off the plane and go straight there, say hello to the buffalo head on the wall and eat as many barbecued meats as you possibly can. the goode family is a houston restaurant dynasty that has a number of places around town. for a less dynastic experience, try thelma's bar b que (1020 live oak street, 713-228-2262). look for the little red and white house, and don't hesitate.'' New York Times 5109 kirby drive, Houston, TX Restaurant, Budget, Local spot

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