the air up there - View this location on map 'albuquerque sits in a wide valley, chiseled eons ago by the rio grande. look west and there's a stately openness to the land, like the high plains of kansas or nevada. turn around, though, and urban albuquerque breaks abruptly against the sheer, rocky sides of the sandia mountains. this is indelibly new mexico and the perfect spot to introduce yourself to the city. buy a late- afternoon roundtrip ticket on the sandia peak tramway (505-856-7325; $15). the world's longest aerial tram, it climbs sharply to sandia peak, 10,378 feet. the ride, in a swaying, glass-lined gondola, above, is vertiginous, but the rewards are considerable. fanglike rocks pass far below. golden eagles often wheel and soar. at the top, an observation deck lets you see hundreds of miles, past the sequined lights of the city to where the land loses itself in a smudge-dark horizon. afterward, watch the shamelessly gaudy sunset from the windowed confines of the high finance restaurant and tavern (505-243-9742). stick to the margaritas; the cuisine is much less inspired than the view.'' New York Times 10 tramway loop ne, Albuquerque, NM Active, Kids

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