taking the waters - View this location on map 'with a full day of race watching ahead, awake early and indulge in the city's legendary baths. a few of the downtown hotels provide traditional spa services, but for the full historic experience it's tough to beat the buckstaff bathhouse (501-623-2308). but be forewarned: it's more 'the road to wellville' than ayurvedic hot stone chakra realignment. highlights of the complex six-stage bathing process ($20.25 ) include a 20-minute soak in a deep tub of natural 102-degree mineral water (pumped from mountain hot springs, of course), a session inside the spring-fed steam room and a mummy-like hot pack treatment. in between, you can sip on the mineral-rich waters and rest in marble-clad cooling rooms. another package ($47) adds a 20-minute swedish massage to the 90-minute bathing process.'' New York Times 509 central avenue, Hot Springs, Arkansas Shopping

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