starry, starry nightcap - View this location on map 'Until recently, the Royal Palms Resort and Spa was a kitschy dive, featuring a crumbling heart-shaped swimming pool. Then a local developer gave the place a multimillion-dollar face lift, restoring the Mediterranean-style architecture and transforming the bougainvillea-filled gardens into a desert paradise. T. Cook's Lounge at Royal Palms (602-808-0766) is a small, bustling nightspot trimmed with cherrywood and frescoes. Sip your cocktail at the bar, then head outside to walk the grounds, where there's a courtyard around every corner. If it's chilly, sit by the outdoor fireplace near the restaurant. Tiny orange lights twinkle in the citrus trees.'' New York Times 5200 East Camelback Road, Phoenix, AZ Nightlife

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