sizzling seafood show - View this location on map 'space is tight at the columbian cafe (503-325-2233; cash and check only), but the close quarters at this funky renovated lunch counter keep you close to the action. the chef and resident curmudgeon, uriah hulsey, works the open kitchen with playful barbs and a constant patter of small talk. his eclectic turns on seasonal seafood run from mexican-influenced rice dishes ($17) to wild coho salmon with dill cream sauce atop hand-rolled fettuccine ($20). adventurous souls might want to cast themselves to the whim of mr. hulsey by ordering his trademark, seafood mercy (seafood $23, vegetarian $18). choose one of five spice levels (wimpy to wild), and the chef improvises a dish to fit his own moods and the diner's eventual pleasure. with wild mushrooms now in season, seafood mercy might include poached halibut cheeks and oregon porcini mushrooms in garlic and onion sauce.'' New York Times 1102 marine drive, Astoria, OR Restaurant, Local spot

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