serve it with soul - View this location on map 'for a taste of cajun and soul food, stop by claudia and brian nickerson's soul on the bayeaux (3717 dowling street, 713-528-0732), in the heart of houston's third ward, a neighborhood just seeing the beginnings of renewal and development. look for the gator. dishes include blackened catfish ($11.95) and crayfish etoufee ($9.95), with okra and corn, mustard greens or collard greens on the side. in season, consider the fried alligator appetizer ($5.95) if you think you can handle it.'' New York Times 3717 dowling street, Houston, TX Restaurant

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