sake and sculpture - View this location on map 'a split-level space with a split personality, varnish fine art (415-222-6131) is a wine bar in the body of an art gallery. on friday afternoons, a post-work crowd gathers, inspecting art installations while sipping pinot noir. music pulses from the sound system, and house wines pour for $5 a glass. put away a few sake cocktails (also $5, at happy hour) and you might wind up ordering a steel-and-blown-glass sculpture for $6,200. a few doors down, john colins (90 natoma street, 415-543-2277) is another popular spot to wash away the workweek. the regulars here are younger than at varnish. and louder. but the surfing films screened on the wall are silent. a bouncer guards the door, but the industrial-chic atmosphere is far from daunting.'' New York Times 77 natoma street, San Francisco, CA Restaurant, Cultural

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