on time for dinner - View this location on map you've got to belly up to the bar if you want to sample bakersfield's best food. the noriega hotel (661-322-8419), with its well-worn countertop and voluble barkeepers, is the place to go when you're really, really hungry. the noriega's multicourse basque feast includes pickled tongue, cabbage soup, spaghetti and sheep cheese washed down with picon punch, a potent local specialty made from brandy, maraschino syrup and liqueur. the noriega only has one dinner seating, at 7 each evening, so make reservations and be prompt. walk-ins and laggards are out of luck. New York Times 525 sumner street, Bakersfield, CA Local spot, Restaurant

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