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the street lights are now electric, but the gaslamp quarter, a 16-block national historic district, remains the city's historic and entertainment hub. in the heart of the quarter, croce's restaurant and bars (619-233-4355), opened by ingrid croce in memory of her late husband, the singer-songwriter jim croce, features contemporary american cuisine like sesame seared sashimi ahi ($29.95) and tournado of grilled salmon with mango-walnut chutney ($24.95). as background music, of course, are croce hits like ''bad, bad leroy brown'' and ''time in a bottle.'' New York Times
802 fifth avenue, San Diego, CA

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