in praise of kitsch - View this location on map remember the heyday of the tiki bar, when fruity rum drinks were served in polynesian-themed glassware and pupu platters were the appetizer of choice? the mai-kai 954-563-3272) has never forgotten it. this fort lauderdale institution, founded in 1956, is a potent reminder of the state's pre-disney, kitschy past. the menu may be predictable, but the food is far better than the standard tourist fare. on a recent visit, the pad thai ($18.95) and grilled mahi-mahi ($25) were winners, although the pupu platter ($13.95) was something of a greasy disappointment. many dishes and drinks come with curious rituals: the striking of a gong or the lighting of a sparkler. stick around for the 45-minute show ($9.95 cover charge, performed twice nightly), replete with hula-mad dancers and fire-twirling showmen. New York Times 3599 north federal highway, Fort Lauderdale, FL Restaurant

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