go fish - View this location on map st. petersburg is in the middle of the mullet latitudes, the globe-spanning band of warm water that is so-called because it teems not with good ol' boys with funny haircuts but with the popular sport fish. even so, the most popular catch of the day is by far the grouper, a succulent white fish pan seared or oven roasted to perfection ($21.95) at bertoni ( 727-363-1998), an italian restaurant in lovely pass-a-grille, a leafy section of st. pete beach nestled between the gulf of mexico and the waters of the intracoastal waterway. New York Times 709 gulf way, St. Petersburg, FL Restaurant

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