french country cooking - View this location on map  whet your appetite with a cheese plate at the girl & the fig (707-938-3634), a selection of cow-, goat- and sheep-milk cheeses (ask for the super-aged winchester gouda, which has a crunchy, nutty quality), served with sliced apples and a sweet, almond fig cake. the chef, john toulze, prepares a grilled polenta with portobello mushrooms and spinach ($10.95) that's creamy and rich, and his haricots verts and shoestring frites are both light and crispy ($4.50). now you can try your hand at home with ''the girl & the fig cookbook.'' New York Times 110 west spain street, Sonoma, CA Restaurant |