dinner under the clouds - View this location on map 'the high ceilings of montrio (831-648-8880), a snazzy downtown bistro, are covered by massive fabric clouds. on a recent friday night, a waitress explained that they were installed to absorb sound. you'll be glad they are there. with its exposed brick walls and packed tables, montrio has the buzz of a newly opened restaurant in manhattan, but the food is distinctly californian. try the baby artichoke, apple-smoked bacon risotto ($9.35) or the dungeness crabcakes ($10.85) to start, then move on to the free-range pork chop with cheddar corncake ($19.45) or the lamb tenderloin ($20.80). don't forget the dessert bites, tiny portions of sweets like banana cream pie or caramel mousse ($3.25 each).'' New York Times 414 calle principal, Monterey, CA Restaurant

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