dinner at the ranch - View this location on map Film buffs will recognize Reata as the ranch in the 1956 movie ''Giant.'' And Reata, the restaurant, ( 817-336-1009) is a big enough concept to invite comparison. Spread over several floors of an old building in the heart of Sundance Square, its polished Western ambience is well-served by a professional staff, an extensive wine list and a sophisticated interpretation of Western cuisine. It is moot whether Reata's ranch hands feasted on pan-seared pepper-crusted tenderloin with a port wine sauce ($29.95), bone-in double pork chop with a Bourbon apple sauce ($18.95) or tortilla-crusted salmon with a salsa verde ($20.95). Just don't question -- or miss -- the dessert tacos with caramelized bananas and chocolate gravy ($6.95). For a nightcap, the fourth-floor bar has a panoramic skyline view. If your stamina holds up, the hot clubs around Sundance Square stay open until at least 2 a.m. NYT 310 houston street, Fort Worth, TX Restaurant

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