buy and go - View this location on map 'after leaving the vineyard haven harbor, head not for the famous black dog tavern but one mile west. with some luck, you can have black dog-lite at the black dog cafe (508-696-8190). here, the crowds are usually thinner, the reservations unwanted and unneeded. there won't be formal dinner fare, but you can make a quick meal of club sandwiches (from $5.50 to $7.50), burgers ($6.95) or pizza (from $13.95). and if you really, really must, you can buy a t-shirt ($20 and up).'' New York Times 509 state road, Tisbury, MA Restaurant

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