Viet Bistro - View this location on map 'Some of the spiciest--and most interesting--cooking in the Eden Center.A cloud of smoke engulfs a cluster of Vietnamese businessmen huddled around the bar drinking tall glasses of sweet iced coffee. The rest of the crowd, from office workers to mothers with toddlers, don t seem to notice the building is new and ventilation pretty good. Besides, there are other things to focus on, such as a hash of diced baby clams with hits of pork and chili to be scooped up with sesame-flecked rice crackers. Take the owners at their word: Hot means hot. Lotus-stalk salad with shrimp and pork may sound cool and refreshing, but it s laced with chilies. Portions are big, and so are the flavors. Rice casseroles cooked in a clay pot the one with spicy Chinese sausage is especially delicious have a homey robustness. And while the caramel-sauce dishes with pork, shrimp, or fish might be unfamiliar, the vinegar-based brew is a nice switch from the candy-sweet versions found elsewhere. Beware: It s almost as addictive as cigarettes. Open daily for lunch and dinner.' Washingtonian 6799 Wilson Boulevard, Falls Church, VA Budget, Restaurant

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