RM - View this location on map After eight years as chef at Oceana, Rick Moonen left to open his own restaurant in 2002. He is that rare chef whose creations are both gutsy and academic. Each dish is a carefully controlled, reasoned construction. Sweet roasted scallops are perched on a disk of breaded oxtail, an earthy, brilliant combination. Lemon-cured arctic char is simple and luxuriously pure. Not everything succeeds, but the few clunkers are the exceptions. Good entree choices include poached halibut with fennel cream, walleyed pike wrapped in potato slices, skate encrusted with pistachio and crisp-skinned loup de mer. The dessert selections are more flamboyant, often matching sweets and cheeses on a single plate. A bittersweet chocolate mousse served with oozy goat cheese was a perfect match - NYT Restaurant Review 33 E. 60th St., New York, New York Restaurant rm - View this location on map Restaurant

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