Pies-n-Thighs - View this location on map Yeast-raised doughnuts have their fans, but the all-American doughnut is the cake doughnut, a.k.a. an old-fashioned or (not unaffectionately) a sinker. This is the doughnut that pulled a Lucy-and-Ethel-at-the-bonbon-factory on Homer Price, and the type of sturdy specimen engineered to withstand, on Formica coffee-shop countertops across the country, the rigors of being dunked into piping-hot cups of coffee. The best are found at Pies-n-Thighs, the hole-in-the-wall southern-style fried-chicken kitchen located in the back of an exceptionally seedy Williamsburg bar. They re crisp-edged and properly dense, spiced with nutmeg, and sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. Buttermilk and sour cream give them a subtle tang, and, because Pies-n-Thighs partner Sarah Buck, in her delightfully quirky way, cuts the batter with a large biscuit ring, each one is about the size of a Texas grapefruit or maybe an undersize boccie ball which, unlike big bagels, isn t a bad thing in our book. NY Magazine 351 Kent Ave, New York, New York Shopping

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