Nobu - View this location on map Chic, casual and pulsing with energy, Nobu cannot be compared with any other restaurant. The spirit of invention of its chef-owner, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, incorporating new ingredients into old dishes or retooling traditional recipes lighted a spark in the kitchen, igniting each chef to new and increasingly daring feats. The result is something that seems like a Japanese dish but is not.. The best time to eat at Nobu is lunchtime. Order an omakase meal and let the chefs choose your meal for you. No kitchen turns out a more spectacular plate of sushi. Desserts include a warm chocolate soufflee; cake with siso syrup and green tea ice cream that comes in a bento box. Popularity may be taking its toll. On a recent visit, the Benihana overtones, a weakness for gaudy gimmicks, and the tourist clientele, added up to a less than deluxe experience. Edwyn Ferrari, the new chef, can both dazzle and dismay with his omakase. The sushi maintains a high level of quality, however, and the black cod with miso is still one of the most luxurious taste experiences in New York. NYT review 105 Hudson St., New York, New York Restaurant

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