Le Bernardin - View this location on map Le Bernardin grabbed hold of four stars from the New York Times less than three months after it opened in early 1986 and has never let them slip from its grasp, maintaining its superior rating more than twice as long as any of the other New York restaurants in its elite company. (The runner-up, Jean Georges, earned four stars in mid-1997.) None of its peers have built a legend so sturdy and all can learn from its example of graceful aging, of adapting to changing times without losing its soul. Now as before, it is a high church of reverently prepared fish. But more than ever global currents inform and influence what emerges from Eric Ripert's kitchen. The absence of ostentatious fireworks on the plates and the lack of sex appeal in the dining room leave some people disappointed. But make no mistake: this is impeccably and subtly prepared food of the very highest order. -- Frank Bruni 155 W. 51st St., New York, New York Restaurant

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