Jo Jo - View this location on map After an extensive renovation, Jo Jo has shown, with extraordinary grace, how a restaurant can age without looking old. The place looks sumptuous now. At the same time, it still has the heart of a bistro. The style of service is not overformal. The menu is a fairly short read, and the wine list, with perhaps 65 selections, makes a serious effort to please the $50 customer. Owner Jean-Georges Vongerichten has wisely retained a few signature dishes. The menu continues to offer an appetizer of shrimp dusted in orange powder, and the renowned roast chicken with chickpea fries is still an entree. The food at Jo Jo never clamors for attention. A pristine pea soup sets itself a single goal, to express pea flavor with maximum clarity and presence, which it does. In a bold but entirely successful move, Mr. Vongerichten conjures up a light, bright and fruity sauce for black sea bass, with sweet shreds of carrot 'confit' suspended in orange juice and olive oil accented with cumin. For dessert, a dainty lemon meringue tart comes with a scoop of tingling lemon-verbena ice cream, its flavor as clear as crystal. This little shock of pure citrus is shorthand for the new Jo Jo. It's older now, but still new in all the ways that count. NYT review 160 E. 64th St., New York, New York Restaurant

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