Fiamma Osteria - View this location on map  According to the New York Times, 'Fiamma Osteria is a beautifully realized restaurant, highly satisfying in every way. It's located in a SoHo town house with dining rooms on two levels. Upstairs, the designer Jeffrey Beers has created a subdued atmosphere with rich, saturated reds and browns. The downstairs room is lighter, brighter and louder, more brasserie than restaurant. The food lives up to the setting. The chef stays firmly rooted in the core principles of Italian cooking, putting prime ingredients on a sparely designed stage and letting them speak with minimum interference. The Fiamma veal chop, perfumed with sage, is visually impressive, a big player on the plate, but the chef heads off veal fatigue by supplying handsomely caramelized sweet and sour cipollini onions and flavorful asparagus roasted, sliced into thin lengths and wrapped like a sheaf in a slice of prosciutto. The pastas at Fiamma are exceptional. Two deserve special mention, raviolini stuffed with braised veal shank in a potent, reduced veal sauce enriched with formaggio de fossa and broad bands of spinach pasta tossed with braised rabbit Bolognese in a Parmesan cream sauce. The dessert rotation changes, but the showstopper is a layered hazelnut chocolate torte on a crackling pastry base, served with gianduja gelato and chocolate sauce.' 206 Spring St., New York, New York Restaurant |