Cho Sun Ok Restaurant - View this location on map 'Woo Bok Lee opened his restaurant in 1979, and it stands today as the oldest operating Korean restaurant in the city. People still line up at the door for a table in the tightly-packed room, where the specialties are five varieties of naengmyeon (buckwheat noodles) and  stone pan cooking. The latter (for two or more people) involves gas burners on the table fueling a heavy stone griddle upon which a variety of seasoned meats are seared octopus, beef, tripe, or a combination. Marinated vegetables and steamed rice (or noodles) are then cooked in the rendered juices, the rice crisps on the pan, and the resulting fabric-penetrating aromas can be whiffed down the block. Originally a North Korean specialty, naengmyeon are served cold and slippery, a bracing refreshment in hot weather, usually in light beef broth garnished with slivered cucumber or radish, hard-boiled egg, mustard, and red pepper paste. I prefer the two  dry variations served here with hot sauce, one topped with raw, chewy skate. Mike Sula' Chicago Reader 4200 N. Lincoln, Chicago, IL Budget, Restauran

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