Ceviche - View this location on map 'Lounge king Mauricio Fraga-Rosenfeld creates a restaurant for grownups. The bad news: The comforting Ecuadorian potato-egg stew called loroco and the crisped pork belly are gone. The good news: They’ve been replaced by more wonders. New chef Javier Angeles-Beron’s arroz tapado, a rice dish with layers of ground beef and raisins and a scattering of crispy leeks, has a homey elegance. And his take on the Peruvian stir-fry lomo saltado substitutes tenderloin for the cheaper cuts usually used, while a thick jus bathes tomatoes, red onions, and French fries.' Washingtonian 921-J Ellsworth Dr., Silver Spring, MD Budget, Restaurant

---