BLT Fish - View this location on map BLT Fish, which presents great food without airs, cinches the verdict: the chef Laurent Tourondel is back in the swim. It allows the indulgence of different sensibilities and moods, letting diners take from it what they want, be it whole fish as pure and clean as anything likely to swim in the direction of dinner, or seafood done up in cheekier fashions. The octopus salad may be the best in the city, the salt-crusted pink snapper and crispy red snapper are exellent and caramelized meringue over banana and passion fruit sorbet and Rocky Road cake take care of the desserts. -- Frank Bruni 21 W. 17th St., New York, New York Restaurant

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