BEYOND GRITS - View this location on map New York has wandered down to Tennessee  specifically, to St. John s Restaurant (423-266-4400), an upscale spot with a chef from the Gramercy Tavern in Manhattan, a knowledgeable but unobtrusive serving staff and fresh seafood flown in from all over. You can order ranch antelope with a cantaloupe chutney and stone-ground grits ($30), Hawaiian monchong fish ($25), seared Alaskan ivory salmon ($24) or strawberry pie ($8). It can be a bit quiet at St. John s, so if it s boisterous you want, go to the recently opened, buzz-worthy Blue Water Grille (224 Broad Street, 423-266-4200), with its lurid, Shaq-sized paintings of marlin and grouper and its fresh seafood from Florida (lump crab cakes, $10; lobster tacos, $10; jerk swordfish, $19). New York Times 1234 Market Street, Chattanooga, TN Restaurant

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